November 7, 2001
Stillwater Gazette
Betsy Halden

Amaryllis bulb

Many of us enjoy the spectacular amaryllis plant during the holidays and the winter months. An amaryllis bulb makes a wonderful gift, and the long lasting blooms can give weeks of enjoyment to all who live around it. Now is the time to pot an amaryllis for the holidays. Each year for the last eight years my husband had an amaryllis bulb in his office at work. Each year, after the bulb stopped blooming, he brought it home and asked me to take care of it. Here are some suggestions to help you grow and take care of this attractive plant.

As many people know, amaryllis are the popular flowering bulbs which are forced indoors for their large, spectacular blooms. The trumpet-shaped flowers can be as large as 8 to 10 inches across. The flowers come in a range of colors including red, pink, orange, salmon, white, and bi-colors, whites with pink or red flushes. The stalks have an average of four flowers, but there can be two to six flowers at the top of an 18 to 30-inch tall flower stalk.

Amaryllis bulbs can be purchased pre-planted in pots or you can buy them alone, unspotted. When purchasing amaryllis, select solid bulbs. The largest bulbs often produce 2 flower stalks.

There are a number of varieties. ‘Red Lion’- deep crimson red; ‘White Christmas’ - snow white; ‘Apple Blossom’ - soft pink and white; ‘Prince Carnival’ - white with red stripes; ‘Minerva’ - red with white star; ‘Picotee’ - white with red edges; ‘Green Goddess’ – white with a green throat.

Double-flowering amaryllis are also available. Varieties with double flowers include ‘Pasadena’ –red flower with white streaks, ‘Lady Jane’ – rose-pink flower with white streaks down the center of each petal, and ‘Double Picotee' - pure white flower with red edges around the petals. The bulbs can be purchased at local nursery and garden centers.

When planting an amaryllis bulb, select a pot which is approximately 1 to 2 inches wider than the diameter of the bulb. The container may be clay, ceramic, or plastic. it should have drainage holes in the bottom. Plant the bulb in good, well-drained potting soil. Add a small amount of potting soil in the bottom of the pot. Center the bulb in the middle of the pot. Then add additional potting soil, firming it around the roots and bulb. When finished potting the upper one-half to two-thirds of the bulb should remain above the soil surface. Also, leave about one inch between the soil surface and the pot’s trim. Then water well and place in a warm (70 to 75 F) location. Check the pot before watering a pre-planted amaryllis bulb. If the container doesn’t have drainage holes, remove the bulb. Drill small holes in the bottom of the container and replant or transfer the bulb to a pot with drainage holes.

After the initial watering, allow the soil to dry somewhat before watering again. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. When growth appears, move the plant to a sunny window and apply a water-soluble fertilizer every 2 to 4 weeks.

As the flower stalk elongates, turn the pot each day to keep the stalk growing straight. Flower stalks that lean badly may need staking.

Flowering usually occurs about 4 to 6 weeks after potting. When amaryllis begins to bloom, move the plant to a slightly cooler (60 to 65 F) location that doesn’t receive direct sun to prolong the life of the flowers.

Pot amaryllis bulbs now, in early to mid-November, for bloom during the Christmas holidays.

After the flowers fade, cut off the flower stalk with a sharp knife. Make the cut 1 to 2 inches above the bulb. Don’t damage the foliage. In order for the bulb to bloom again next season, the plant must replenish its depleted food reserves. The strap-like leaves manufacture food which is stored in the bulb. Place the plant in a sunny window and water when the soil surface is nearly dry. Fertilize every 2 to 4 weeks with a houseplant fertilizer.

You can move the amaryllis outdoors in late May or early June, when danger of frost is past. Harden or acclimate the plant to the outdoors by placing it in a shady, protected area for 2 to 3 days then gradually expose it to a few hours of direct sun. Once hardened, dig a hole in a partially shaded or sunny flower bed and set the pot into the ground. Outdoors, continue to water the plant during dry weather. Also, continue to fertilize the amaryllis once or twice a month through July. Bring the plant indoors in mid-September. Plants left indoors should be kept in a sunny window.

Amaryllis bulbs need to go dormant for 2 to 3 months before blooming. To induce dormancy, place the amaryllis in a cool, semi-dark location in late September and withhold water. Cut off the foliage when the leaves dry and turn brown. Then place the pot in a cool (40 to 50 F), dry location for a 2 to 3 month rest period. After several weeks of rest, periodically check the bulb for signs of new growth. When a bud or foliage begins to emerge, place the amaryllis in a warm, bright location and water to start the growth cycle again. if repotting is necessary, do so before watering. large, healthy bulbs will produce 1 or 2 flower stalks. Small, weak bulb produce only foliage.

Betsy Halden is a Master Gardener with the University of Minnesota Extension Service. University of Minnesota Extension Service materials were consulted in the preparation of this column. You can reach Betsy Halden at eahalden@comcast.net